Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2024
Just over two weeks since Creative Director Virginie Viard departed from the Maison, Chanel is once again in full stride. As we know, the fashion industry never halts. Yesterday, the French House’s Fashion Creation Studio held a show at the iconic Palais Garnier in Paris to unveil their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, which paid homage to the venue itself. Staying true to Haute Couture tradition, the garments were grandiose: capes, gowns, embroideries, tassels, feathers, tweed, taffeta, satin. The techniques, materials, and silhouettes showcased the rich heritage of Chanel and the unmatched craftsmanship of its six different ateliers, where around 150 people work diligently to keep tradition alive.
For more than six years, Chanel has been deeply involved with dance activities at Palais Garnier. In 2018, they became the Patron of the dance season’s Opening Gala; in 2021, the Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra; and in 2023, the Major Patron of the Opéra national de Paris. Nearly a century before that, the Maison’s founder, Gabrielle Chanel, designed revolutionary costumes for the ballets Le Train Bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928). Thus, Chanel’s legacy has long been intertwined with ballet.
This connection was evident in the Haute Couture F/W 2024 show. However, the collection focused more on the ballet audience, who need to be dressed impeccably. This was clear from the start. The show opened with a floor-length black cape featuring an elaborate neck of layered ruffles and a jewel-like plastron, leaving the audience in awe. The collection continued to impress: the classic tailored tweed suit was reimagined in magenta, various shades of grey, royal purple, and lush green, incorporating everything from embroideries to plastrons to feathers. The silhouettes were equally rich and opulent. Sleeves were puffed, pleated, and diaphanous. A long, pale pink coat was structured with strong shoulder pads. In several looks, waists were cinched, creating a perfect hourglass shape.
It’s uncommon to see such cohesive collections when design teams lack leadership. We’ve seen this challenge in other major houses. However, Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio seems to understand precisely who their affluent clients are and what they desire: the pinnacle of luxury, comfort, beauty, and elegance. This is exactly what they delivered. While we await the announcement of a new Creative Director, we can appreciate the exceptional work of the current team, showcasing great savoir-faire.
