LONG LIVE OPULENT FASHION
Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2024
Just over two weeks after Creative Director Virginie Viard’s departure from the Maison, Chanel is back in action. As we all know, the fashion industry waits for no one. Yesterday, the Fashion Creation Studio of the French House staged a show at the iconic Palais Garnier in Paris to unveil their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, paying homage to its historic venue. True to Haute Couture tradition, the collection was grandiose, featuring capes, gowns, embroidery, tassels, feathers, tweed, taffeta, and satin. The techniques, materials, and silhouettes echoed Chanel’s rich history and the unparalleled craftsmanship of its six ateliers, where approximately 150 people work diligently to preserve tradition.
For over six years, Chanel has been deeply involved with the dance activities hosted at Palais Garnier. In 2018, they became the Patron of the dance season’s Opening Gala; in 2021, Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra; and in 2023, Major Patron of the Opéra national de Paris. Nearly a century earlier, Maison founder Gabrielle Chanel designed the revolutionary costumes for the ballets Le Train Bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928). Chanel’s codes have been intrinsically linked to ballet for a long time.
This connection was evident in the Haute Couture F/W 2024 show. However, the collection focused more on the people attending the ballet, requiring them to be impeccably dressed. The show opened with a floor-length black cape featuring an intricate layered ruffle neck and a jewel-like plastron, making a stunning impression. The classic tailored tweed suit was reimagined in magenta, various shades of grey, royal purple, and lush green, incorporating everything from embroidery to plastrons to feathers. The silhouettes were rich and opulent, with puffed, pleated, and diaphanous sleeves. A long, pale pink coat featured strong shoulder pads and structured design. In several looks, cinched waists created a perfect hourglass silhouette.
It is unusual to see cohesive collections from design teams lacking leadership, as witnessed in other major houses. Yet, Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio appears to understand its clientele and their expectations for luxury, comfort, beauty, and elegance. This collection embodies those qualities. The future remains uncertain as the Maison has yet to announce a new Creative Director. Meanwhile, we can appreciate the inner team’s exceptional savoir-faire.
