DRIES VAN NOTEN S/S 2025
THERE IS NO BEGINNING, NO END
Dries Van Noten S/S 2025
Dries Van Noten intended this to be a celebration, symbolized by the enormous disco ball that shared the stage during his final runway appearance. But who hasn’t shed a tear at a party? We knew this day was inevitable as time passed. When fashion month began, my initial thought was not the typical “here we go again” but “this is Dries’ last.” Knowing something is imminent doesn’t equate to being prepared or accepting the reality that one of the last true masters of fashion was making his final moves, preparing to leave the stage that fashion lovers have admired for decades. The final show, numbered 129, made us wish for 130, not just for aesthetic reasons but because we longed for just one more collection from him. But, true to his brand, it was his decision, and we respect it.
From 1986 to 2024, a lot has changed. The young man who, at 28, fresh out of the Royal Academy of Antwerp, presented his first collection is now presenting his last at 66. Over the years, much has transformed, especially in fashion, which lives ahead of its time, faster and more intensely. Yet, Dries Van Noten has always exuded a unique calmness and consistency. This serenity is reflected not only in the high quality of his creations but also in his personal demeanor and lifestyle. Living in a fairytale-like house with a dream garden, his life mirrors the natural rhythms and peace that influence his work.
For decades, the fashion world has been nourished by his sensible yet academic approach, where everything made visual and intellectual sense: the endless unique prints, masterful color combinations, and garments that epitomize high fashion meant to be worn and cherished. On June 22, we experienced his last collection, a perfect Dries Van Noten showcase with all the elements that made us loyal to him.
The show took place during Paris Fashion Week but in an industrial space in La Courneuve, away from the chaos, with big screens displaying some of Dries’ most memorable moments. Friends and family gathered to share these final moments, far from the bustle of Paris, creating a dream guest list for any fashion enthusiast. Among the 1036 attendees were Haider Ackermann, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Thom Browne, all expressing love for Dries. He welcomed each guest with a glass of his favorite champagne and his characteristic warm smile. His fellow Belgians, from new generations like Glenn Martens to lifelong friends like Ann Demeulemeester and Walter Van Beirendonck, were also present. There were rumors of Martin Margiela’s presence, but I won’t delve into that.
The audience included those who shaped Dries as a person and a brand: pattern makers, embroiders, his team, and clients. It felt more like a family reunion than a celebrity-studded event, focusing on being surrounded by loved ones rather than who had the best look or took the best picture. This ambiance, rare in today’s fashion world, highlighted what truly matters—feeling at home with those you love. Dries has always enjoyed unwavering loyalty; once someone likes him, they love him.
The show began with a long catwalk of foil that moved with the models’ steps. The collection was entirely menswear, even those worn by female models. The lapels on blazers and suits indicated they were technically for men, but as with all Dries’ pieces, they transcended gender norms. The collection wasn’t a “best of” or retrospective but another excellent showcase that happened to be the last. Starting with darker tones, turning colorful in the middle, and ending brightly, the collection displayed his best craftsmanship. The printing techniques, layering, and tailoring were impeccably executed, showcasing transparency, textures, and perfect garment fit.
After the show, Dries mentioned this collection as a step forward, looking to the future. While it’s hard not to feel a sense of loss, we must acknowledge the unmatched past he leaves behind. His legacy has shaped generations, and his impact on fashion is immeasurable. It’s admirable that he could choose the timing and manner of his departure, marking the end of an honorable career. However, it’s hard not to feel a sense of emptiness and sadness as the original greats dwindle. Though great things continue to happen in fashion, in my humble opinion, nothing will top the past.
I saw Dries less than a month ago at the Royal Academy in Antwerp, where we both viewed the masters’ graduate collections. It was a moment when words felt inadequate to express how much he meant to me. As a professional member of the international press, I couldn’t express the admiration I felt as a young fashion design student. Yet, telepathically, I hoped to influence him to reconsider. Dries Van Noten has inspired millions, and though his absence will be felt, his lessons will continue to shape and expand his already significant legacy.
