A STUDY OF PRECISION
Jonathan Anderson’s latest Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show immersed attendees in a realm of artistic precision and singularity. Held at La Garde Républicaine, the presentation featured curated masterpieces from iconic 20th-century creatives, seamlessly blending art and fashion. Inspired by Susan Sontag’s concept of the “erotics of art,” which emphasizes sensual pleasure over interpretation, Anderson’s show was a rich tapestry of eclectic references. These included Peter Hujar’s evocative photography, Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s intricate furniture designs, Carlo Scarpa’s meticulous creations, and Paul Thek’s transformative sculptures, all influencing Anderson’s visionary garments that merge tradition with modernity.
As anticipated from Anderson, the collection highlighted razor-sharp tailoring with slim silhouettes and precise detailing. French C-suite tailoring paired with almond-toe leather oxfords in a monochromatic palette added sophistication and refinement. Fabrics such as woven silk mohair offered a spongey finish, giving a subtle bounce to movement and showcasing Anderson’s effortless complexity.
Precision was a key theme as Anderson skillfully played with scale and setting. House labels were reimagined into smocked shirts, while vests featured sections resembling watch strap links or mother of pearl, adding texture and intrigue. Shorts and t-shirts, painted with cable knit shapes and edged in golden piping, shone like ceramics. Anderson’s use of forced perspective was evident with gold and monochrome feathers that partially obscured the models’ faces, constantly challenging the audience’s perceptions.
Standout pieces in the collection included cropped shirts and pants connected by double-circled belts from the stomach to the hip, creating a dynamic interplay of unity and division. A short-sleeve shirt made of tonal fringe resembling hairy houndstooth, and a long brown coat transitioning from nappa leather to ostrich, showcased Anderson’s mastery of material transformation.
Throughout the show, the influence of the featured artists was evident. Hujar’s single high-heeled shoe, Mackintosh’s complex Half Moon Chair, and Scarpa’s easel were integral elements that enhanced the narrative, elevating the everyday to the extraordinary. By drawing on the singular artistic voices of the past, Anderson crafts a narrative that is both deeply personal and universally resonant.
