SONGZIO S/S 2025

BOTH THE BLACK AND THE PINK IN US

Songzio’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection marked a significant debut during the last Paris Fashion Week Men as the Korean fashion house presented its first co-ed collection. This milestone is noteworthy in itself, but the collection bridges much more than gender boundaries. Creative director Jay Songzio explores a spectrum, divides himself into two personas, and embraces both ends. The collection, titled “Bright Star,” embodies Songzio’s core value: dualism. If you are drawn to utilitarian post-war style, leather, moto jackets, and an all-black palette, this collection will resonate with you. Conversely, if you prefer baby pink, embossed designs, and whimsical barbie-colored silk tulle, Songzio has something for you as well.

Attendees at Songzio’s show in the 9ème arrondissement last Friday, seated along the Haussmann Boulevard runway, felt a sense of privilege. Initially, they might have felt lucky, followed by a sense of confusion. The all-black ensemble, reminiscent of Rick Owens, Balenciaga, and Margiela, is a familiar sight—black exudes a fierce, post-war gothic aesthetic that commands loyalty. Yet, Songzio defies tradition, embracing a philosophy of creative freedom. He integrates pink into his work without compromising its seriousness, using glossy silk to create striking pink pieces while black waits its turn.

Creative freedom is celebrated in this collection, distinguishing it from mere chaos through a grounding ideology. Each piece reflects a steadfast intention, showing that there are multiple ways to manifest a singular vision. The title “Bright Star” is inspired by aquarelle portraits of youthful boys with boundless imagination, symbolized by a star painted directly onto some S/S 2025 pieces. This star serves as the guiding iconography of the collection, representing constancy and guidance.

Founded in 1993, Songzio is a seasoned player in the fashion industry. Experienced designers and craftsmen adeptly manipulate various materials, from cotton and linen to metallic meshes, heavy wools, thick tweeds, fluid silks, and delicate organzas. The dramatic cocoon shoulders and voluminous bell sleeves in this collection demonstrate a mastery of materials to achieve ambitious structural designs.

“Bright Star” transcends time with its giant exaggerated sleeves that nod to the eighties’ padded shoulders, now rendered bulbous rather than pointed. The collection’s sandals, merging Greek gladiator sandals with boxing boots, highlight Songzio’s commitment to artistry, even if wearing them takes extra time. This dedication to art and intention is at the heart of Songzio’s brand, with the Spring/Summer 2025 collection reaching new heights in fashion.