RETURN TO THE FUNDAMENTALS
Paris is bustling and somewhat chaotic due to the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Amidst the city’s extensive construction and renovation efforts, Maria Grazia Chiuri has opted to return to the origins of art and culture: Ancient Greece. For Dior’s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture Collection, the Creative Director draws inspiration from marble statues, field sports, and a celebration of the human form.
The opening look established the theme for the show: a symmetrical long white dress featuring exquisite draping on the shoulders and hips, reminiscent of the Caryatides or other Greek sculptures of the female form. These images, deeply embedded in Western collective memory, evoke a time of spiritual and sacred simplicity. The F/W collection captures this essence, conveying a sense of ease and comfort while elevating these primary ideas through the exceptional craftsmanship of the Dior ateliers.
According to the Maison, for Maria Grazia Chiuri, the show “represents an extraordinary opportunity to combine couture and sportswear with classicism, rebellion, collective energy, and, above all, the political value of the female body.” This vision is reflected in the meticulous draping of dresses, skirts, and tops. Draping, a technique worked directly on the body or a mannequin, reconnects with the essence of the wearer. While some pieces feature sheer fabrics that reveal the body, others cocoon it without restriction.
The collection utilizes airy, lightweight fabrics to ensure maximum comfort. Unusually, Chiuri incorporates jersey, typically not seen in Haute Couture, transforming it into metal mesh in gold, silver, and white. Techniques like pleats, both sewn down and open, enhance movement, and luxurious materials like silk and moiré jacquard are prevalent throughout the collection.
True to its ancient inspiration, the color palette focuses on neutral tones: varying shades of white, silver, gold, and black. A clever use of red, a ‘color of life’ as per Monsieur Dior, appears in subtle details and one standout look—a bathrobe-like dress adorned with hundreds of shimmering crystals.
