At this moment, a figure next to a young Kate Moss appears to be burning alive, and Robbie Williams is encased in ceramic. While these scenes are not literally true, they are captured visually in London’s vibrant 180 Studios. Why? Because during the dynamic 90s, each stood before the unique lens of Rankin. Now, they are celebrated in his retrospective exhibition “Back In The Dazed,” running until June 23, 2024.
In a conversation with the iconic Rankin, we discuss the highs, lows, and memorable moments of both past and present. As the co-founder and initial photographic editor of Dazed & Confused, Rankin’s work has become a hallmark of British culture and style, shaping the visual language of multiple generations. This exhibition features over 200 editorial shoots from 1991-2001, though Rankin’s influence extends far beyond, capturing icons like David Bowie, the Rolling Stones, and Queen Elizabeth II.
Reviving the 90s Culture Through Photography
Your exhibition brings back the lively culture of the 90s, particularly through Dazed & Confused. What motivated you to create this retrospective now, and what do you want viewers to gain from it?
Initially, I aimed to revisit and contextualize a body of work for myself. Collaborating with a curator and their team made me realize the exhibition reflects who I was, the broader context of the time period, and the meaning my images hold for others.
Looking at my work, I noticed how singular my vision was back then. Revisiting my past and understanding my attempts to push boundaries 30 years ago is personally thrilling. What stands out most are the brilliant collaborations with the early Dazed team, which I had initially overlooked.
The Impact of Seeing Your Work Together
How does it feel to see your past work all in one place?
It’s funny because it represents only a part of my past. It feels overwhelming and special to realize the collective impact of our team. It’s like listening to a series of albums, focusing on the parts I contributed to, sparking excitement for future exhibitions.
Deviations from Initial Vision
Did any images in the retrospective result from deviating from the initial vision?
That’s like asking a cab driver if they changed the route mid-journey! Despite my reputation for being dictatorial, I’ve always embraced a flexible approach. Collaboration and improvisation, especially when resources were scarce, often led to finding new creative paths.
Recurring Themes in Your Work
Looking back, is there a recurring emotion or message that consistently fuels your expression?
I used to see my photography as uncovering truth within fabricated lies. Now, I believe it’s about finding humanity in subjects and a love for the medium.
Feeling Detached from Pop Culture
You’ve mentioned feeling like an outsider within pop culture. Has this sense of detachment benefited your work?
Definitely. Feeling like an outsider has been a strength, allowing me to embrace my unique perspective. I’ve accepted my contrarian nature, which keeps me from trying to fit in.
Balancing a Diverse Career
Have you found it challenging to balance fashion, portraiture, film direction, and publishing while maintaining a coherent artistic vision?
Yes, every day. Ambition and hunger are vital for a young creative, but self-motivation needs to be balanced with critical self-analysis. Accountability and self-awareness are crucial for creativity and longevity.
Evolution of Your Craft
How has your relationship with your craft evolved over the years?
I’ve always been a learner, enjoying the process. I respect photography as an evolving art form, constantly offering new challenges.
Addressing Difficult Subjects
You’ve tackled challenging subjects like mortality and vulnerability. Have you always found it important to inject your ideals into your images?
Absolutely. While conceiving work, I consider ideas, politics, and resistance to taboos. In the process, there’s a genuine curiosity and sincerity.
Moral Considerations
Have any moral considerations guided your work?
Yes, although I sometimes feel the pressure to compromise. On balance, I believe the good in my work outweighs the less successful parts.
Photography in a Saturated Age
Photography now dominates our communication. How do you view this transition?
I completely agree. The democratization of photography through phones and social media is both exciting and concerning. The responsibility once held by professionals is now widespread, and the impact of images may not always be fully appreciated.
Shifting Dynamics of Image Consumption
Has the changing dynamic of image consumption affected your approach to photography?
Yes, it has. The proliferation of images leads to unintentional intellectual borrowing. I try to confront and comment on this in my work.
Consistent Elements in Youth Culture
What remains constant in youth culture despite radical changes?
Youth is now attitudinal rather than generational. Many people resist growing, failing to learn from past mistakes, which makes humanity vulnerable.
Memorable Moments
You’ve photographed over 200 editorial shoots for Dazed in the 90s. Do you have a standout memory?
While many iconic images aren’t from Dazed, the shoots for the magazine are memorable. Photographing Björk for the first time stands out. The images still feel modern and authentic, and I recall being starstruck and unsure what to talk about between shots.
